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ATI super damper

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78K views 85 replies 40 participants last post by  akmee2004  
#1 ·
I just got a ATI super damper, RSX typeS fitment, 5.5". I have only looked at it and have not yet read the directions,


UPDATE

I decided to use the ATI on the K20 and ordered up a custom one for the K24 engine(but in a 7" dia.).

Here is the ATI SuperDamper compared to a stock A2 crank pulley.

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the ATI part#
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and installed
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I have to say there is a very noticable reduction in vibrations, much smoother at idle, and with the A/C on the only indication is a slight change in engine tone!
 
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#2 ·
more info on the ATI damper please... link?
 
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#3 ·
Haven't heard of this damper before, replaces crank pulley? In for more info :up:
 
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#4 ·
The ATI damper should be a direct replacement for the OEM pulley just like the fluidampr units. Where did you get the ATI damper from? I was under the impression that they were special order directly from ATI?

Have you had a chance to test fitment yet?
 
#5 ·
http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/products/dampers/charts/damhonda.htm
Honda / Acura B-Series Super Dampers
Image

The patented ATI Super Damper is the only damper designed exclusively for high performance engines.
  • Eliminates torsional crankshaft vibrations
  • Exceeds SFI 18.1 specs
  • Laser engraved 360° timing marks
  • Black zinc chromate finished

Street Damper
ATI has designed a 5.5” damper -- Part # 918476 -- for the Honda B-Series for high horsepower street use. This new design is a direct replacement for the stock OEM damper. The heart of this unit is the tried and true “damper within a damper” design that has put ATI ahead of the rest. The outer shell has been machined with the necessary multigroove pulleys to utilize the factory serpentine belt set-up.

The damper includes a removable serpentine style power steering pulley for ‘94 and newer B-Series applications, with the V-groove power steering pulley available upon request for the earlier B-Series applications.

Race Damper
ATI’s 7” and 6.325” race versions are built with all-out power in mind. You won’t find drives for A/C and power steering here. The alternator drive is built into the hub with laser engraved 360° timing marks on outer damper shell.

HONDA H22, K20, K24, & F20 dampers available upon request.
Click to expand...
-Jalal
 
#6 ·
ATI just happened to have one built and on the shelf when I called them. They did say they had enough inventory to build 20 or so more. The stock damper slides on and off the crank snout with no real force at all. And after reading the directions, which are not specific to the serpentine series, it appears that they need to be hone fitted as well, they give a nice chart to determine the press-fit dimensions. With the proper tools this only takes 10-15 minutes extra time to install over a stockie.

Doug
 
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#7 ·
so you ordered direct from ATI?

what is the weight difference?
 
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#8 ·
I had ordered it directly from ATI after calling alot of shops and them not knowing of it. I had to really dig thru ATI's online pdf catalog to find the small print saying the K20 dampers are special order. I have not had a chance to weigh it, later tonight I will, this will be replacing the EP3 crank pulley that is on the A2 now, so I will not be able to give you a weight comparison to a typeS stockie.

Doug
 
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#9 ·
thats cool, any total weight or comparo information would be good...

So it was special order, but they have the inventory to build more? So it's not on the shelf but it's not like you are paying extra, you just have to wait for them to put it togther?
 
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#12 ·
The ATI super damper weighed out at 5.9lbs, but that was on a scale that I do not know is right or not, but it is heavier than a stock typeS damper. It is the same dia as a stock typeS damper. And it DOES require to be hone fitted to the crank for a proper interference fit.

Some pics .

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Image
 
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#14 ·
kommon_sense said:
Looks like fluidampr has a k-series damper available now : http://www.fluidampr.com/HONDA.htm
Click to expand...

But the fluidamper is a 6.75" dia with a dedicated custom alternator pulley. While the typeS is at 5.5" dia., the Fluidamper at 6.75" will be rather hard to integrate onto a street driven machine.
 
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#18 ·
k20spooner said:
so if you have a k20a2 swap in a ek/eg/dc you do not need the ep3 idler pulley? need the same 52" belt though?
Click to expand...
Are you talking about a 3 pulley setup using the larger diameter fluiddamper and using a stock alternator pulley?
I think you would run into belt clearance issues without a larger alt pulley (see pic, stock crank pulley/aem alt pulley), worth a try though. As far as the belt length...if the diameter of the pulley is larger you will need a slightly larger belt, maybe a 39.5" or 40"
The 5 pulley setup (uses the EP3 idler pulley) will need the belt measured after the new crank pulley is installed.
You can measure the desired belt length with some string, just trace the path of the belt and then measure the string.
Image
 
#21 ·
kommon_sense said:
I can't honestly say that I would bother with a damper unless you plan to see high rpms for extended periods such as on a road-course.
Click to expand...
Wait what exactly does this do? When I let off throttle at high RPM (say about to enter a corner) the engine RPM fluctuates (RPM goes up and down as it slowly slows down from initial throttle release).

Would this damper help get rid of that? Are those the vibrations being discussed in this thread?
 
#22 ·
blackdc5 said:
Wait what exactly does this do? When I let off throttle at high RPM (say about to enter a corner) the engine RPM fluctuates (RPM goes up and down as it slowly slows down from initial throttle release).

Would this damper help get rid of that? Are those the vibrations being discussed in this thread?
Click to expand...
No, it sounds like you have a tuning issue.

There is a certain amount of vibration that is in *any* drivetrain. This vibration leads to wear and will cause wear on the bearings. Honda/acura try to combat this with the stock balancer. The stock balancer has a rubber ring in it and it is tuned to a deal with this vibration in a certain rpm range.

This is where fluidampr/ati come into the picture with their dampers. Their dampers/balancers have an inert fluid/gel in them that is tuned to allow them to handle the vibrations through most of the rpm range and especially at higher rpms beyond the stock redline.

So on a road course where you are at high rpms for extended periods of time, a damper/balancer is a great addition for reliability.
 
#23 ·
Helps with the head also, there is a substantial amount of vibration from the crank transmitted to the cams via the timing chain. These dampers have been known to help reduce cam deflection in V8 OHV configurations, the gains should be even more in a DOHC setup where the chain distance from the crank to the cams is even longer.
 
#24 ·
kommon_sense said:
No, it sounds like you have a tuning issue.
Click to expand...
Tuning issue?

My friend's B series motor does the same thing, and my old stock K20A3 motor did the same thing when you let off at high RPMs--RPMs would not smoothly decrease but decreases jerkingly. I thought it was normal as it only does it at high RPM.

Can you point me towards what I need to look at on my tune to make sure?
Cam angle maybe? Or a particular setting in parameters?
 
N
#25 ·
this is interesting. maybe try to do a datalog when your road racing/auto x'ing. I havn't driven my car near its limits in a while so I can't really comment on that but I think the stock crank pulley and crank are pretty well engineered/ balanced well from the factory where if I were auto x a couple laps here and there I would just add that extra 6th quart of royal purple (or whatever oil you prefer) to help out.
 
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